Mela Chiraghan, or the Festival of Lights, often thought to be an ordinary Urs celebrated in Lahore,
Pakistan is a celebration of the union and profound bond between Shah Hussain and Madhu Laal. This festival is celebrated throughout Asia, and visiting Mela Chiraghan introduces you to a world where the love between two men is honored in the heart of Lahore.
Shah Hussain, a prominent Sufi figure, is deeply revered, and his connection with Madhu Laal, a Hindu boy, is celebrated with great respect. Shah Hussain even took the name Madhu Laal, known as Madhu Laal Hussain. According to historical accounts, Madhu Laal did not convert to Islam and remained a Hindu until his death, following Shah Hussain's instruction that the reality of God could be attained in various forms. Madhu Laal was buried in a grave next to Shah Hussain, symbolizing their eternal bond.
Shah Hussain faced criticism from the mullahs of the city for his unorthodox practices and his love for Madhu Laal. Despite the societal pressures and accusations of an inappropriate relationship, Shah Hussain’s love for Madhu Laal remained steadfast. Devotees and dervishes at the shrine believe that their love was pure, spiritual, and deeply emotional, transcending modern categorizations.
Shah Hussain was also the pioneer of 'Kafi,' a classical form of Punjabi poetry ideal for expressing socio-spiritual and existential experiences. His poetry continues to inspire and resonate with many.
ماہی ماہی گو کدی ، میں آپے رانجھن ہوئی
ماہی ماہی گوکدی میں آپے رانجھن ہوئی
رانجھن رانجھن سب کوئی آکھو ، ہیر نہ آکھو کوئی
جس شوہ نوں میں ڈھونڈدی ، ڈھونڈ لدھا شوه سو ای کہے
حسین سادھاں دے ملیاں ، نکل بھل گیو ای ہے.
شاه حسین
The celebration of Mela Chiraghan is unique, with a large fire pit at its center serving as a gathering point for attendees who bring diyaas (oil lamps) and place them near the pit. They also throw burning candles into the pit to keep it illuminated.
From electric lights to traditional chiraaghs, the mela is filled with light.
A special place is reserved for dhamaal, a spiritual dance that is different from the general dhamaal performed by many. The real dhamaal takes place at a specific spot at the shrine, and participants must perform ablution before engaging in the dance. It is believed that with every beat of the drum, the name of Allah is heard from the heart, leading dancers into a state of ecstasy.
Outside the shrine, various snacks are available, including:
Qatlamba, Balu Shahi, Meethe Pakora, Meethi Kachiri, Qeeme wali Kachori
Additionally, there is a special area where bhaang (marijuana) is served, often consumed with lassi.
Many lifelong devotees visit the festival, and some claim to have seen Madhu Laal Hussain, asserting his spiritual presence remains alive.
Mela Chiraghan is not just a celebration but a profound expression of love, spirituality, and cultural heritage, honoring the legacy of Shah Hussain and Madhu Laal. Visiting it and taking pictures took me to another level of mystic feelings.
I always knew that Lahore was a place of celebration and lights, and many festivals were happening throughout the year. While it was my first time coming to Lahore when I came to university, I always wanted to explore multiple festivals and melodies happening in Lahore. Your blog really provides a thoughtful summary of Mela-Chiragan. Firstly, I'm amazed to see how the love of two men is celebrated while, overall, it is always locked down in Pakistan. Also, their love is seen as pure and eternal love that stays forever alive. But I did have one question while reading your blog, too. While all these things are celebrated, does fire represent something meaningful? I mean, fire represents many things like…